Relaxing in Athens

Our final stop in the tour of Greece was Athens. After taking the airport train to downtown to save money, we still g0t ripped off by a cab driver who took us to our hotel by a very roundabout way and charged us 20 euros for it. But the hotel was in a great location, right in the heart of the "Plaka", the oldest part of Athens right at the very foot of the Acropolis. ln fact the room had a partial view of it, and from the hotel roof you could see the whole thing practically right in your lap.
We only had a day and a half, so the first day we explored the streets and ruins of the Plaka, which include-- besides the funky bars and gelato stands among the shops-- Greek and Roman foundations, the beautifully preserved Roman "Tower of the Winds", and a great museum inside a "Roman" agora building they actually rebuilt recently according to what they believe was the original design. We then wandered up to the Acropolis itself, which I never get tired of seeing, and Jen was amazed she was actually there. I still miss the old childhood days when we could stroll through the Parthenon, but I suppose it's for the best to keep tourists out now.
We are also interested to see several dogs roaming among the ruins. We spot a Parthenon employee feeding them and ask her about them. She explains that before the '04 Olympics, the Greek government rounded up the Athens street dogs, and the "nice" ones were sterilized and vaccinated, given collars, and after the Olympics, re-released to the streets. Fortunately, now the Greeks seem to like the dogs more now that they know they've been treated. They feed them more and the dogs seem to be tolerated better than on my earlier travels here.
I only hope the government continues the spay/neuter program now that the Olympics are over. Only time will tell.
The Plaka is also full of those great sidewalk cafes and tavernas I love (with the usual cats playing on the walls next to you, like in the picture) and of course we dined at one.
The next day we scrambled to meet Costas, an old Greek family friend, in Syntagma Square, the main plaza of Athens, but got started in the wrong direction. Luckily Costas is patient and was still there by the time we showed up, and we had coffee and a nice chat in one of the square's cafes. Then it was off to the National museum, where the country's greatest archeological treasures are kept, to get a glimpse of Greece's past glory. I'm still awed by some of the masterpieces produced by the early Greeks, who set the standards for classical art and sculpture.
After another sidewalk dinner, we watched the sun set on the Acropolis from our rooftop, and toasted a wonderful, wandering two weeks in grand old Greece.

Unfortunately Jen found out at the last minute that they changed her flight's departure time to 7:00 am (due to an airline strike), so she hardly got any sleep and had to take a taxi to the airport at 4 a.m. instead of the train later like we had planned. I later found out that she also got stuck in Frankfurt and had to spend the night there (courtesy of Lufthansa). And my flight to Romania was bumped to the afternoon, so my arrival there was late also.

But more on that in the next blog, "Roamin' in Romania", where a whole new chapter of my travels and animal exploits starts. See you soon!

Santorini & Crete

From Naxos we took another ferry (this time the open-decked, slower kind that are much more fun to ride) and were met at the harbor by a driver from our hotel. It was nice not to have to squeeze into a crowded bus with the other touists to go up the cliff to town, but instead be driven right to the hotel. The Agnadema Hotel turned out to be even better than it looked on the internet: We got a free upgrade to a spacious studio with our own little balcony and a breathtaking view overlooking the caldera and other islands of the Santorini group. The photos don't do it justice.
That evening we ate at an open-air restaurant and nearly froze as the wind picked up and the temperature dropped. It was worth it to watch the sunset (and the dog on the wall) but just barely. Tne next day we rented a car and drove from one end of the island to the other. We peeked at the black beach (lava rock sand) and the red beach (a rare reddish sand) but we just aren't the types to lay around on a beach, so we pushed on. We checked out a village where I saw a mule tied out in the hot sun with no water, and got yelled at by the drunk owner for photographing it. The bar owners came out and apologized for him, but it left a bad taste for a while.
I soon felt better when we stopped by a couple of wineries and did some tasting of Santorini wines. My favorite was a semi-sweet red, and Jen liked the vey sweet dessert wine "Vinsanto". She also tried the ouzo, but alone it tastes like cough syrup (we thought), so most of it was left for the maid. By the afternoon we were at the western end of the island where we watched a great sunset from "Dimitri's", a little seaside restaurant down the cliff right next to the water. We had a nice talk with the American owner who had married a Greek man and now ran the place. Talk about fresh: they cooked the just-caught fish right out back of the place. And we shared our chairs with the ownder's cat who slept through the whole evening until the sun set.
The ride back to our hotel along the cliffs in the dark wasn't so fun, so the next day we decided not to drive anywhere else but stay with our pattern of relaxing on the second day. We did little more than stroll the winding alleys and browse in the unique little shops selling local artisans' crafts, and (of course) enjoy great Greek food at some of the seemingly endless number of tavernas. Santorini is so beautiful that you really don't have to do much more than that, and gaze out at the views, to enjoy a vacation there. The next morning we caught a high-speed hydrofoil to Crete for one final island stop. For some reason the boat sat in the harbor for almost an hour while we waited, which delayed our arrival in the huge, unnatractive capital city of Iraklion just enough to cause us to miss the bus to the much prettier (and smaller) Chania harbor town, where we had a hotel reserved. We thought about renting a car to get there, but it was a 2-hour drive at night, and I had no idea how to get there anyway, so we nixed that idea. Schlepping our luggage, we walked to several nearby hotels until we found one with a room at a reasonable price. Tired, hungry and both a bit nauseous after the long boat ride we gladly took it and collapsed.
The next day we caught the bus to Chania (pronounced without the "C"), and found that once again our little 500-year old hotel.was even cuter than the pictures had portrayed. The old man running the place forgave us for our late arrival and gave us the best room-- the top floor complete with loft, cat, and sweet dog out the back door. Thanks to our late arrival we only had one night there, but it turned out to be all we needed to explore the maze of shops in the old section of town, and walk out on the harbor wall to the lighthouse to watch the sunset, then dinner in the harbor.
The next morning we had to pack yet again for the morning flight to Athens, coming up next. Stay tuned!

Naxos

Naxos was better than I remembered. I've already been there twice-- with my sister Betsy in 1994, and again with a friend in 2003. This time we stayed again at the wonderful little hotel owned by Stelios and Anna (and their sweet dog Rea), friends of Costas, an old family friend we knew in Greece back in the '60's). Anna and Stelios have also become old friends now, giving warm hospitality in their hotel and the beachside restaurant "Odysseus". Unfortunately we arrived too early in the season for the Odysseus to be open, but right next door the neighboring taverna served wonderful Greek food by "Yanni", which of course we took full advantage of!
We oohed and aahed at our room, then went for a walk on the beach, where we met a young couple carrying some old nets that had washed up. The girl explained that turltes and other sea life can get caught and drown in the nets, and birds will eat pieces of plastic and also die. So we, too, embarked on a beach cleanup walk. Over the three days there we collected two large trash bags of all kinds of plastic junk including some netting, all the way down to lots of straws that are used in proliferation here. It was a nice feeling to leave the beach cleaner and safer than when we got there. Jen even found an encrusted ring that at first looked like an antique, but turned out to be a tourist trinket still seen in shops today!
The next day we rented a little car and drove around the island. On my last two trips there I had been woefully negligent in seeing more of Naxos besides the beach and Naxos town, but this time we did a pretty thorough job of exploring it. On Stelios's advice we headed for the center of the island and drove through several cute little villages. We stopped to check out a little church, which turned out to be gated... But we met an old Greek man next door, probably the caretaker, who hardly spoke a word of English but invited us by sign language to go in the gate ("Porta") and see the gardens. He seemed impressed at our admiration of the plants, because then he also waved us into his own garden next door, where we met his smiling wife who offered us cookies and coffee. I remembered the legendary Greek hospitality and knew we were likely to be asked inside for lunch, so after a short visit we indicated we had to go. Before we left they gave us some lemons from their tree and took our picture in their garden!
Our lack of communication inspired Jen & I to brush up on our Greek, and we quickly learned (re-learned, in my case) some basic phrases. Now we can both say enough words to please the local shopkeepers, etc., at least enough to show that we've made an effort. I was even asked if I spoke Greek!
The drive turned out to be pretty cliff-hugging, including avoiding some goats and other obstacles like rocks and oncoming buses, but we made it to a great little village on a mountain where we were served a wonderful lunch at a sidewalk taverna. The village also had some great artisans' shops where we browsed before continuing on around the top of the island and back down along the coast. We finished up in Naxos town and walked out to the giant "Porta".ruins of an ancient Greek temple. (The remains are what's left of the door-- hence the name), and then had a harborside dinner and checked out the many shops in the labyrinth of winding little alleys.
It was such a full day we did nothing but relax the next day; only going for another beach walk and cleaning up another section of beach. We read a lot and worked on our tans, and had a final dinner at Yanni's. Anna was kind enough to let us use her washing machine, and hanging up our clothes out back, she showed us a little cubby hole where a pretty dog was nursing some adorable puppies. Speaking of dogs, I also fed a nearby Rottweiler chained all day in an empty lot with a doghouse. He had water, but ate my canned food ravenously, and was very grateful!

All too soon it was time for the ferry the next day to Santorini, and after our goodbyes Jen got to ride on her first open-air ferry to Santorini, which will be the next blog. See you then!

Istanbul Revisited

My flight from Bodrum got me to the Istanbul airport just in time to meet Jen, who flew in from Virginia, all according to plan. I knew enough not to fiddle around with trying to get to the hotel by train or bus, but just take a taxi. It's fast, easy, and fairly cheap... kinda like me.
The little hotel was back in the Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque) area, but on an even better block, just around the corner from my last place. The Zuegma Hotel is right in the middle of a tiny cobblestoned street that seems taken right out of a village in the countryside: quiet, and lined with sidewalk cafes and little shops.
I took Jen on a short walk to show her the views of the mosques, and then (having had less than two hours sleep on the flight) let her nap. She got up in time for dinner which we had on a rooftop restaurant across the street which had incredible views.
I have to admit she adjusted pretty fast; by next morning she was on Istanbul time. We got up too late to have the complimentary breakfast (which wasn't much anyway) so we got some juice and pastry in a shop and went to see the sights. First up was Aya Sofia (also spelled Hahgia Sophia), the mosque-turned cathedral-turned museum that should have been listed as one of the wonders of the ancient world, but I guess anything built in the sixth century A.D wasn't around to make Herodatus's list. Anyway it was a real pleasure to finally see first-hand the genius of the architecture. I'm no expert, but I believe the incredible domed ceiling covers an area much larger than St. Paul's in London, and that was built over a thousand years later. Jen mentioned that nobody she knew had ever heard of the Sofia, which is a shame, it really is a wonder of the ages. The Blue Mosque, also built a milennium later, is also a masterpiece of domed beauty, but inside had huge columns supporting the roof that the Sofia didn't need, yet another testament to that unknown genius of ancient Turkey. Still, being much newer, the Blue Mosque is in much better shape, and the inside is so beautiful it's still used for prayer in the afternoon-- and because of that Jen had to wear a temporary "skirt" to get inside!
We snacked on some of the local food, including "corn in a cup", a circular sesame bread thing, and of course baklava. Then we passed the mannikin-like guards and went thought the gate into Topkapi Palace. It was much better preserved than I hoped, and we spent all afternoon exploring the various chambers, exhibits and buildings. We finished on the Sultan's terrace which gave spectacular views of the bosporus. Dinner was at one of the cute little restaurants on our street.
The next day, sunday, I took Jen for breakfast at the wonderful Four Seasons (the former prison) just around the corner, and spent far too much on it, but it was something I just had to do. I also had planned to take her to the Grand Bazaar and on a bosporus cruise, but fate seemed to be against us. First we found out that all the bazaars were closed un sundays, not only the Grand but the Spice and the Egyptian bazaars as well. And it was drizzly and cold all day, too wet to enjoy a boat cruise. Instead we intrepid travelers walked to the Spice Bazaar area and found another open-air market that was open, with many shops that sold animals, so you can imagine how interested we were! Most of them actually seemed pretty well cared for, but some conditions weren't ideal, like some of the puppies in small dark cages, including a sweet Rottweiler that probably never sold as a pup and was now getting big. He licked my fingers and I wished I could have found him a home, but as usual I knew nowhere to take him in Istanbul. We couldn't imagine why anyone would want to buy a dog or cat there when the streets were full of friendly strays just begging to be taken home.
There were also restaurants in the area and we had some nice hot apple tea which is everywhere there, and visited a nearby mosque which was not as big as the Blue, but pretty impressive on its own, as many of them are. We also crossed the bridge to the other side, but there wasn't much to see there. In fact the bridge itself was the most interesting part, with guys fishing off the top, and the lower level had lots of shops and cafes, including some lined with colorful '70's-style beanbag chairs outside-- but it was too cold to sit there.

That night we ate again at another sidewalk restaurant on our street. I don't think there's a bad place in the whole area; with all the competition, it would soon go out of business, which was good for us; we had some memorable meals of shrimp casserole, mussels in rice pilaf, and all manner of delicious Turkish dishes. Our favorites are tomato and feta salads (with some black olives), drizzled with fresh, local olive oil--also great for bread-dipping afterwards. Jen also has a special fondness for the ztaztiki sauce (yogurt/cucumber dip) that comes wtih pita bread to dip. I was again sorely tempted to have a kebab (they have chicken, lamb, beef and gyro or donner types all over) but somehow managed to avoid it once more.
Next day we had an early flight to Mykonos, where we caught a ferry to Naxos. Mykonos is nice, and has a lot to offer, but I thought Jen would like quiet, less touristy Naxos better. I think I was right-- see the next blog soon. [Internet has been hard to get on the Greek Islands, but I'll try to catch up soon...]

Traveling Lean and Green

Here are some tips I've learned or developed along the way to travel clean, lean and green, leaving as small a footprint as I can as a tourist, and maybe even helping to spread the word that not all tourists are lazy, self-centered slobs only interested in pleasure and self-gratification no matter what the cost to the local (or global) environment.

Hotels. I'm finding many hotels around the world that offer "green" laundering choices. In many rooms there will be a card or sign that says something like "Every year billions of gallons of water and millions of pounds of bleach and detergents are wasted cleaning hotel sheets and towels, not to mention the energy wasted. To help our environment, re-hanging your towels means you don't wish to have them changed, and if you do, place them on the floor." I look for this type of sign now in every hotel, and always re-hang my towels. I mean, who needs their towels washed after just one use? If there is no such sign, I mention it to the management and remind them that they can save money by such practices, and tell them that hotels all over the world are doing it. I also ask them to please not change the sheets until I check out. Some maids are so used to doing this that they do anyway, in which case I remind the management of my request, and ask them to please abide by it, in the hopes that they will start to get the message.
I also only open one soap. Usually there are two or more little bars of soap, and if you open more than one they might change them for new ones the next day. In one hotel in Thailand new soap and shampoo, which both came in little bottles, arrived like clockwork every day in my bathroom, in spite of the fact that I wasn't even using it! I think this is a waste of soap and energy, and helps pollute the environment. Now I have just taken to ask that NO room service be performed while I visit. That way the maids don't get the chance to be wasteful, and probably appreciate the break. And I don't have to straighten up the room before they come, either!

Eating. Many people may not realize that eating meat makes a HUGE impact on local pollution, wastes lots of energy, and certainly does nothing to stop the global move towards cruel "factory farming". Some might be curious how hard it is to find meatless food while traveling. I have yet to find a restaurant, cafe, pub or any place (except maybe a gyro stand) that doesn't serve plenty of delicious meals I can eat. I love eating at the little outdoor tavernas and such, especially if there's a harbor view. But I also try to avoid the main tourist restaraunts, like the ones right next to the big attractions where hungry tourists normally migrate, or the big chains and ones in large hotels, etc. I try to find a little, out of the way family-run place where the locals eat, the food is better and cheaper, and you're not ignored by some snobby waiter.
I also never, ever go into American fast-food places that are now all over the world. I don't want to support the globablization of KFC, McDonald's, or Starbucks. When exploring the winding, cobblestoned streets of a cute little village in Europe, the last thing I want to see is a Burger King in the town square--which unfortunately I do, all too often. There's no telling how many local places these chains have put out of business, but I'll certainly never help them do it.
I also try to eat locally and seasonally. If someone visiting London for Christmas demands fresh strawberries, for example, she would get them, but they'd either be flown in from South Africa or grown in heated, energy-gobbling hydroponic farms. I've also been asking at tavernas if the tomatoes and such are from that island or area, but often there's a language problem. They often smile and say, "Yes, very fresh!" leaving me to wonder what the real story is.
And I'm starting to see why the travel guru Rick Steves loves picknicking; it's fun to nip into a little mom & pop store and buy some bread and cheese, and maybe some fruit (I also used to get salamis, more's the pity) and walk around munching it or find somewhere to sit and people-watch. It's easier on the budget and fun to try new things to eat. And of course I always try the local beer or wine. Only a moron would go to, say, Prague, and ask for an American beer.

Transportation. One of my friends back home and I were discussing global warming, and he brought up a good point: if I was trying to help prevent climate change, how did I reconcile all the air travel I've been doing this year? I admit there's not much defense-- air travel is one of the biggest causes of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, not even counting the particulates and water vapor released into the upper atmosphere which some scientists think could double the action caused by the CO2 alone. No doubt it's a high-energy, polluting way to travel. I could only tell him that for this trip, the time constraints force me to use some air travel, and that when I can I take trains, buses, ferrys and other public transportation, and only taxis when necessary in a big, strange city (like Tokyo or Istanbul). I've also done a heckuva lot of walking, which not only allows one to really see and experience a new place, but is great exercise too-- I've shed quite a bit of extra "baggage" while traveling.

Also now when you purchase plane tickets you are often given the option of buying "carbon credits", which is supposed to be invested in activities that balance out the CO2 released, such as planting trees, etc. I admit I know little about what is actually involved in this new field, but I buy the credits anyway, which hopefully balances the books better. I know that no credit system can take the carbon out of the air, but maybe it helps.

Spreading the Word. When I go places, I ask questions; not necessarily to get answers, but to make people think. For example, in a cafe, when I'm finished with a bottle of juice, I hand it back to the person behind the counter and ask if they recycle. If they say no, I ask, "Why not?" Or say I'm in a tourist souvenier shop and they're selling skins of their native animals; I might ask them if this is how they want tourists to see what they think of their own wildlife (then I tell them that I'll never shop in their store, and tell them why). If I buy milk in a store or eggs in a restaurant, I might ask if they know anything about how the cows or chickens are treated where they get their produce-- for instance if the cows are treated with BGH and antibiotics, or whether the hens are kept in battery cages. The people are usually baffled, but perhaps if enough customers start asking questions like this, they'll get the message that visitors actually do care about such things.
I've asked bookstores why they had so few educational books and so many romance novels, and pet store owners if they knew how the native birds they sold were trapped or bred. I've written to heads of state and asked why they don't do more to support the care and rehabilitation of their own native wildlife--even the species that they tout as their country's 'symbols', and told them that their lack of interest was noticeable even from an outsider's point of view (I have yet to get an answer from any of them on this one). Along the way I've probably annoyed quite a few people with my hard questions, but it's my little way of showing that some tourists actually care about the environment, even if they're not in their own countries.
Pollution. Finally, I never, ever litter; in fact, sometimes I'll clean up other people's litter, especially if local children are watching, to demonstrate by example that it's ok to care about their environment. And I rarely buy a new bottle of water; most places I've been able to refill my bottle (a used juice bottle from the U.S.) with good water from taps and have had no problems. Only at the Elephant Nature Park were we asked to drink their bottled water; I figured I've saved over a hundred bottles worth of plastic so far on this trip, and the energy to transport the water. Not bad considering I'm on the road and traveling in questionable countries; I wonder how many people from developed countries with modern purification plants can make the same claim.